Ch 3 – Iran As I knew it : Visit to Basra the Iraqi Town

By Col V K Bali, Retd
Having sailed from Bombay to Khorramshahr on Shatt al Arab river, we had a short two days halt before proceeding to our final destination of Zahedan via Tehran
Having checked into a nice comfortable hotel after disembarkation from the ship, the next day was for us to explore the area and do some site seeing. Therefore, dad decided to take us to the Iraqi town of Basra, just across the river for a day trip.
Basra a historical city was as old as Islam itself and was a bustling trading town of Iraq. After a hearty breakfast, a ferry took us across to the entry point and we were granted a day’s permission to enter Basra. A car from Indian Mission at Basra was waiting there for us. We drove Straight to the city which must have been hardly half an hour ride.
It was a bustling city with the traders doing a brisk business in the markets and most of places from small sit out 4 chair tea shops to bigger eateries seemed to be full of people. The bargaining between shop keepers and buyers seemed to be rather loud and full of gesturing (a typical Arab trait……same as in Srinagar as well).
We visited a famous local fort and a very old Mosque…we were told that the mosque had a huge historical and religious relevance as it was the first mosque, after the advent of Islam, to have been built outside of the Arabian peninsula
Driving from the mosque on the way back towards Khorramshahr, the driver took a detour and took us to a deserted ancient appearing settlement which seemed to be crumbling due to non occupation and neglect.
We got down from the car and walked around.he driver explained that this settlement was once an Indian quarter of the city during the golden period when this city was a bustling trade hub between India, central Asia and Europe….however due to continuous wars fought between Warring kingdoms to capture the town, the Indian traders had abandoned this place.
Soon We started back and a few hundred meters down the road, we saw a car on the road side with a small crowd gathered around it…the car had been jacked up on stones and it’s all four wheels had been removed.
The driver slowed down to show us the car and shook his head slowly…he said that after the world War 2 and the destruction caused all around, Basra became famous for two things….that was Basra dates which were of very good quality and Basra Car Thieves.
We drove back in silence after that and soon were back to our hotel at Khorramshahr. There was nothing much to do as we had to catch a train for Tehran next day around mid day. So it was again an early lavish dinner and to bed.
Train journey from Khorramshahr to Tehran to be covered in Ep 4