EP 9 – Iran – As I Knew it: Importance of Zahedan

Zahedan has been a historical place and an important link in the land route from Europe to Indian subcontinent due to geography of the area.

The areas North of Zahedan were mountainous and unfit for any road route between Iran and Indian sub continent. The only suitable route perforce had to be between south of the Afghanistan mountain range and the Persian gulf, and Zahedan sat astride that route. Hence Zahedan was the important halt for movement of vehicles etc between Europe and Indian subcontinent…Any movement along this route could be monitored for strategic purposes by the Indian Mission located here.

The only other foreign Mission that was co located in Zahedan was that of Pakistan even when there was no Pakistanis in Zahedan like Indian community. This enabled Pakistanis to monitor this route as it entered Pakistan at Dalbandeen customs port. The other reason appeared to be to keep a tag on Indian Mission being visited by any suspicious Balochis……and rightly so…hahaha.

The Indian Mission also had a need to look after the interests of Indian community at Zahedan, looking after their educational and religious interests as well as facilitating them getting their Indian visas when planning visits to India. They were also a good source of information regarding domestic politics of Iran and other current happenings etc.

Historically, Zahedan had been the capital of Sistan province hosting a sizable Sunni Muslim population in otherwise Shia dominant society. The Baloch tribal were Sunni muslims…one could make out the difference between the two from their appearance.

Baloch tribal wore Salwar and knee length shirt with breast pocket whereas the Iranians wore pants or striped pajamas with shirts tucked in. They were also fairer looking, generally with more detailed features and spoke different languages.

This cultural mix with Indian sardars with their head gears formed an interesting cultural melting pot.

Our servant, named Gullu was also a Baloch with an interesting background. He had a great attachment to India and was very friendly with Sikhs there. He told my father that his mother was from Marri tribe of Balochistan (under Pakistan) and Marri tribe had haome from India to Balochistan and were called Maratha Baloch. He was referring to the third battle of Panipat where the Maratha forces lost the battle and thousands of them were forcibly taken to Balochistan and converted to Islam but they were still proud of their Maratha ancestors and Indian roots.

This point is further reinforced by the fact that post partition, the muslims in Pakistan have destroyed most of ancient Hindu temples every where except in Pakistan Occupied Balochistan due to the fact that Baloch respect the Hindu religious sites. They did not let Pakistani destroy the temples. Hindus in Balochistan still celebrate their religious festivals with lot of zest.

The most prominent Hindu shrine in Balochistan is the Hinglaj Mata Temple, also known as Nani Mandir. It is a highly revered Shakti Peetha, believed to be the location where the head of Goddess Sati fell. This temple is the site of the largest Hindu pilgrimage in Pakistan, the annual Hinglaj Yatra, which attracts over 250, 000 devotees.

It’s situated in the rugged terrain of Hingol National Park, in the Lasbela district of Balochistan. It’s one of the 51 Shakti Peethas, sacred sites in Shaktism, and holds deep spiritual importance for Hindus. The annual Hinglaj Yatra is a major event, drawing large crowds of pilgrims from various communities, including Sindhi, Bhavsar, and Charan.

The temple is also revered by the Baloch people, who refer to it as “Nani Mandir, ” showcasing a legacy of intercommunal respect.