Resuscitating Karkoot Nag : A Repository of Ancient Kashmiri Culture
By Colonel Satish Singh Lalotra
“No heirloom of humankind captures the past so much as do art & language”… Theodore Bikel
The Indian sub-continent as no other physical entity in the entire world comes closer to being repository of cross sections of Indian art, culture, history, sculpture and the ilk. May be it has to do something with its countless ancient rulers who were the connoisseurs of the above facets and perceived themselves as carriers of finer aspects of a life lead with honor & respect as well as beacons of good governance . Since these rulers drew inspiration from the mythological aspects of our ancient scriptures that were laced with best of examples of ‘Statecraft’,this led them toemulation in their physical manifestation which we are now witness to in the form of countless sculptures, temples, forts etc albeit in ruined form.
One such repository of sculptures cum art forms of Lord Shiva (destroyer) nestles in the far north of India in the erstwhile state of Jammu & Kashmir. This non-descript place known by the name of ‘Karkoot/ Karkut Nag’ has the USP of branding its name and fame not only during the ancient times of our country, but also as late as few days back in the rank and file of our countrymen. Riding high on the wave of exquisite creations of sculptures of Hindu God (Lord Shiva) in its myriad forms the recent discovery has added grist to the mill of importance of such ancient objects that with passage of time has only added more value rather than diminishing it.
These idols and ‘Shivlings’ could date back to 2000 years or more, since the area or site where these have been found –Karkoot Nag (Karkut Nag) In the Salia region of ‘Aishmuqam town –is commonly associated by Kashmiri Pandits with the ‘Karkoota dynasty’ which is said to have ruled Kashmir from 625 to 855 CE/BC. It is about 16 kms from the district headquarters of ‘Anantnag’. In all a total of 15 (fifteen) ancient idols, including 11(eleven) Shivlings were discovered at the site which has immense historical importance as brought out by me above.
In addition to the above, there exists a huge damaged pillar which seems to be part of a much larger temple complex now off course withered down to a large extent under the constant onslaught of time and tide of events. I don’t think readers ought to be surprised that Kashmir once upon a time used to be the last bastion of ‘Shaivism’ ; a major Hindu tradition and school of thought that lay overemphasis on veneration of lord Shiva as the supreme deity.
Followers of ‘Shaivism’, known as Shaivites or Shaivs had much larger representation from these Kashmiri masses , who still bask in the glory of Kashmir holding the standard of Lord Shiva in the valley’s precincts as compared to any area of rest of India. ‘Amarnath cave’ in Kashmir is another pointer to the overarching influence of this Hindu God ( Shiva) in the lives of the valley people who used to draw inspiration from lord Shiva’s attributes for further emulation in their daily lives.
Despite such adulation of the masses for their supreme deity, it is a sad commentary on the shape of things that goes to provide a heft to the overall preservation, care, and propagation of such discoveries. The fact that KP (kashmiri Pandit) community has been leaving no stone unturned and always as usual picking up the cudgels on behalf of ‘Shiv Bhakts’ all over the country to help provide a dignified place and revival of ‘Karkoot Nag’ where these ‘Shivlings’ have been found; goes to prove unflinching resolve to reconnect once again with their roots.
The situation though not rosy earlier too in terms of upkeep and care of these ‘Shivlings’ before the mass exodus of the KPs from Kashmir in Jan 1990, has now been tottering on the brink of being labeled as ‘Dismal’. With hardly a soul left of this very beleaguered community in Kashmir valley post 1990 exodus, is it any wonder that these excavations are now a grim reminder to intensify various efforts so as to make sure such priceless Indian heirlooms are not put on the altar of ruthless expediency. The bitter truth of Kashmiri Pundits having left their home & hearths four decades back under the duress of gun has further exacerbated the already deplorable condition of ‘Karkoot Nag’ which used to be one of the identifiable symbols of this beleaguered community.
It would not be out of place to shed some historical light on these ‘Shivlings’ & their assorted art forms which provide an insight into how Kashmir valley came to be known as the ‘Mecca of Shaivism’. Incidentally Shaivism existed in rudimentary vedic forms in Kashmir valley since ancient times. Since ‘Naga worship’ (serpent cult) was prevalent from times of yore in Kashmir and lord Shiva associated with mountains, rivers and the serpents, it did indicate an early assimilation cum integration of all these physical entities with the Kashmiri people as such. Even our ancient and sacred scriptures like the ‘Mahabharta & Nilmata Purana’ (6th century CE) mention ‘Shiva worship’ as the centrality of all celebrations with this KP population. Not to forget the grandiose fashion with which the festival of Mahashivrartri is celebrated in Kashmir, with each of them complimentary to other’s identity in an inalienable manner.
No other Indian state or UT celebrates the festival of Mahashivratri with such fervor and religiosity as does the valley of Kashmir, despite it being populated with max of Muslims. It simply portrays the close intertwining of sinews of religious beliefs of Kashmiri pandits with that of their ‘idolum or ‘simulacrum’ i.e. the idol of ‘Shiva the destroyer. Rather the local deities like ‘Karkotaka Naga’ were assimilated into the ‘Shaivite’ belief systems. Actually religious treatises like the ‘Nilmata Purana’ formalized religious life of Kashmiri pandits which had ‘Shiva rituals’ as typical sine quo non of their religious celebrations.
In fact under ‘Lalitaditya Muktipida’ ( 724-760 CE) and others , Shavisim gained royal patronage in Kashmir valley which eventually gave rise to grandiose structures like the world famous ‘Martand sun temple’ which though rooted in ‘Vasihnavite’ moorings nonetheless reflected the openness of the ruling class of ‘Karakota dynasty’ that ruled Kashmir from 7th to 9th CE. If we dwell a bit deeper into the cult and rise of Shaivism in Kashmir we will stumble upon great founders and philosophers like ‘Vasugupta’ & Abhinavagupta’ who from 850 CE till 1025 CE discovered ‘Shiv sutras’ on Mahadeva mountain in the valley. Similarly the works like ‘Tantraloka’ of Abhinav Gupta had lord Shiva at its center which synthesized tantra, philosophy and aesthetics. But with Islamic invasions from the 13 th century onwards, many temples were destroyed with Shaivism confined only to the books of religious reference to Kashmir.
Despite such a dismal scenario about the care and preservation of priceless Shiv sculptures, there have been occasional attempts in the past to infuse a new lease of life in the attempts to resuscitate the region of ‘Karkoot Nag .The recent discovery of few Shivlings and its associated forms from ‘Karkut Nag’ shrine in Salia, Aishmuqam ( Anantnag) during restoration work on a sacred spring dating back to 2000 years or more was an act of serendipity that should not be lost on the primary care givers, conservationists and the ilk.
Officials from the department of archives, archaeology and museums of J&K have collected these artifacts and transferred them to the SPS Museum, Srinagar for dating, material analysis and further study. That is all fine, but what about spending money in care, preservation and such like actions of these artifacts cum Shivlings from the main central organization of India—i.e the ASI (Archeological Survey of India)?
I suppose no official indication has been provided that these Karkut Nag Shivlings have been formally notified as a site or designated as a protected monument under the ASI act. As on today 56 ( fifty six) monuments of national importance across J&K ( 41 IN Kashmir & 15 in Jammu division) have been on the list of ASI with the recent findings not figuring on the list. For the ASI to takeover any site under its wings, firstly an official notification under the ‘Ancient monuments and archaeological sites and remains act of 1958’ has to be set into motion which I am pretty sure none in the officials’ circles of J&K have ever bothered to do so. Failing which, with what face can we ask for any assistance from the ASI?
As if the above was not enough, there are some sites which have overlapping jurisdictions too in Jammu & Kashmir for the proper care & maintenance of these priceless Kashmiri heirlooms, with the state archaeology, temple trusts, local religious bodies etc too in the fray. In such a confusing scenario can anybody expect that these priceless heritage structures will be given a facelift so as to ensure that they are restored to their pristine glory?
In fact it is true to many of the similar Indian heritage sites elsewhere in the country. It is this grey zone of multiple cum overlapping jurisdictions in the care and preservation of heritage sites that unscrupulous elements and organizations operate and thrive with gay abandon. With these developments taking place are there any remote chances of getting Karkut Nag on the ASI map for forward movement? I have my sincere doubts about this aspect.
Till the time the UT government brings on board Karkut Nag on the ASI map, I may dare say that whatever little we have witnessed in the form of recent excavations of the sacred Shivlings at the shrine may soon be a part of ancient history. As famous Theodore Bikel has famously said quote—‘No heirloom of humankind captures the past so much as do art & language’—unquote.
(The writer is a retired army officer & a regular scribe of ‘Rising Kashmir’. He can be approached on his email: slalotra4729@gmail.com)
